THE TRAIL:
This was my second hike of the Hume and Hovell. Impromptu and unplanned as I decided to jump on the trail 24 hours before I headed off from Yass.
I went East to West again, from Yass to Albury. I parked my vehicle at Albury airport, the only long term parking I could suss out, hopped a cramped Vline bus to Yass ($20, 3.5 hours) and road walked along Black Range Road to the Captain campsite, arriving after 9pm.
Major differences hiking this time involved the multitude of angry, aggressive bogans in white utes raging past and half a dozen tents set up in the dark at Captains. I shuffled in as quiet as I could, gathered water and heard a young female voice whisper "there's someone out there, what should we do?"
Last time I was passed by maybe half a dozen slow moving vehicles and I had the campsite to myself. Yass and the Hume and Hovell are getting busier, no doubt.
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| Lake Burrinjuck. |
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| Map sourced from Google maps. |
Day 2 involved a short wander to Burrinjuck Waters Tourist Park on Lake Burrinjuck. Last time I rocked up and Dean scooted me across, now there are scheduled ferry services on Monday and Thursday only.
Lucky I hit Yass on a Tuesday, arrived at Lake Burrinjuck on a Wednesday and there was availability to fit me in with 5 others on Thursday morning for the short transfer across the lake.
Fare was $50 which includes campsite and use of facilities and Wendy and Dean were as super friendly and helpful as they were 6 years ago.
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| I stumbled across quite a few of these monitor lizards, they always scuttled away up the nearest tall tree. |
CAMPSITES, (C/S) DAILY MILEAGE: Approximate estimates, I don't really know.
Yass - Captain C/S 27km
Captain C/S - Burrinjuck Waters Caravan Park 18km
Burrinjuck Waters C/P - Micalong C/S 42km
Micalong C/S - Campsite at 132km near swing bridge 35km
Ride into Tumut 3km
Taxi back to 132km mark, Hilltop C/S at Blowering Reservoir 28km
Hilltop C/S - C/S on trail near farmland at 200km mark. 40km
Farmland C/S - C/S near Coffee Pot trail register, snorting stallion 33km
Coffee Pot C/S - Tumbarumba via West Burra Rd and Tooma Rd 26km
Tumbarumba - Munderoo C/S via Albury St, Highway walking 18km
Munderoo C/S - Hillview Oak BnB 26km
Hillview BnB - Granite Rock C/S near Norths Lookout, Mt Jergyle 30km
Granite Rock C/S - Lake Hume Holiday Park 32km
Lake Hume H/P - Table Top Reserve C/S 28km
Table Top C/S - Albury Airport 19km
TRAIL CONDITION:
Far superior maintenance than my previous walk, thank you all who work and volunteer and hack back the blackberry and repair the bridges and marker posts. Absolute bloody legends all of you.
It looks great and I was able to switch off and cruise.
The blackberry is lush and green and impossibly thick, creeping high up some gum trees and impeding most of the access to the streams and creeks. But as I said it's kept in check and I didn't suffer a scratch. The crazy amount of branches and twigs on foot tread in the Snowy's was more of an actual hazard, a reminder that the forest is naturally gathering more fuel for the next wildfire.
I barely recognised the trees and bushes as the same flora since my first thru hike.
A major bushfire event rampaged through the region (and much of Eastern Australia) during 2020 and the remaining regrowth is a sad second rate substitute of the glorious forest I wandered through in 2018.
Really fucked up.
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| My favourite campsite high above Blowering Dam. |
WILDLIFE:
So many beautiful, noisy birds.
How lucky are we to have all these lovely winged chirping, squawking, singing feathered little dudes? Too right.
Twitchy brumbies and their foals were often sighted even though a contentious aerial cull had just finished adjacent to parts of the trail I was walking on.
One stallion in particular gave me an earful for a few hours when I camped out on a flat near the Coffee Pot area, he was going off stamping and snorting and mock charging until after dark and I was too stoned and tired to care.
Then there were a couple of poor, blind wallabies possibly suffering from toxoplasmosis (feral cats), the usual foxes, deer, roo's, snakes, lizards, and more flies than I care to remember.
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| Sunset over Lake Hume from the holiday park. |
NAVIGATION:
Trail marking is really good but keep a close eye on where you are heading when crossing private farm land.
I used a mix of All trails and Open Street Maps.
Telstra mobile service is available on many of the high tops and around the major town areas.
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| There's always kooky shit and half cut locals to keep yourself amused. |
TRAIL TOWNS AND RESUPPLY:
I walked into Tumut and Tumbarumba this time, continuous footsteps instead of hitching.
Actually that's bullshit.
Well I was walking up Goobragandara Road into Tumut, planning on a few hours of quiet road bashing when an elderly woman scooped me up and dumped me in town at 8am outside a coffee shop.
I didn't need a ride and I was happy to walk but I have learnt not to turn down a kind offer and it was actually really fun conversation driving into Tumut. Sometimes I need these interactions as a counterbalance to an introverted life.
I resupplied, annoyed the locals, stayed overnight and caught a taxi back to where I was picked up from and poked on to Blowering Reservoir.
So, kinda continuous footsteps.
No skips, no flips, but I am happy to jump off trail and road walk when it gets me into town before a storm thumps down.
Tumut is far busier than 6 years ago, the motorcycle touring crowd are obviously a large money spinner. I asked many locals what it's like to live in Tumut (I have it on the short list as a possible spot to reside in), anyone under 35 described it as Hicksville and boring, anyone older profused undying love for it.
There is a Coles and Woolworths and I purchased a gas cannister from the excellent Tom's Outdoors again.
Tumbarumba is also a busy little hive of activity, tourists swarming the town. IGA supermarket, cafes, laundromat.
I was unable to procure a gas cannister at the hardware store, they actually acted like they wanted me to fuck right off so I did. I've noticed the uptick in tourist visitation has correlated with less than friendly attitudes in Tumut and particularly Tumbarumba which is shame. But that's progress folks.
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| This shot of Buddong Falls shows the state of the surrounding forest after the wildfires ripped through the region in 2020. |
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| Blowering Reservoir. |
Table Top Hotel is a nearly on trail, a nearly not quite resupply option; chips, candy, beers, average bar food. I passed on the $28 hamburger but camped out in the nearby reserve with a 6 pack of something cold.
A doozy of a thunderstorm smashed the Lankeys Creek section right when I was trudging through so I booked a room at the Hillview B&B- right on trail on the road walk section- with Marie and Irvine.
Cool folks, I had a great night and dried out and watched the lightning and downpour from indoors.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
- I took 14 days to hike the H&H during October 2024.
- Water was plentiful. I met a few people this time too which is nice for a change to talk shit and hear someone else's story or whatever is going on their head.
- Many of the campsites have had upgrades and there is an obvious, concerted effort to care for the 400+ kilometres of trail.
- I appreciated how I could still stealth camp easily without hassle and not need to book anything or worry about bogans and firearms unless I was to choose to stay at official camping areas. Which I didn't.
- I can't see the Hume and Hovell ever getting crazy popular and crowded but it's definitely on the long distance hiking trail radar of many in Australia now.
- I'll be jumping on again for another 2 week walk sometime soon.
Link to my previous blog post regarding hiking the Hume & Hovell in 2018 here.
